In this instructional video Dave talks with Teri Volante about how to give your tomatoes the best possible start in life.
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Saturday, 28 March 2009
How to Plant Tomatoes
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Friday, 27 March 2009
Growing Tomatoes - Heirloom Vs Hybrid Varieties
Tomatoes from the grocery store shelves taste like-NOTHING! Why? Most of the tomatoes purchased from grocery stores have been harvested days before they reach the grocery, treated to turn red, and bred to stay firm and not bruise on the shelves. Plant breeding for the last fifty years has concentrated on producing a tomato that can survive anything-except for a taste test.
Gardeners and tomato aficionados alike have given up on the produce aisle for anything other than garnish. Instead, they turn to seed and plant catalogues to find tasty varieties to grow. When viewing a plant catalogue of tomato seed sources, you will be confronted with hundreds of varieties. Huge and tiny, purple, red, yellow and orange tomatoes. Perfectly round, almost flat, and lemon-shaped tomatoes. Seed catalogues highlight another variable to understand regarding tomato growing: heirloom versus hybrid tomatoes.
Heirloom Tomatoes
Tasty and unique, heirloom varieties are endless. This category of plant is where you will find purple, orange and yellow tomatoes sharing catalogue space with red ones. Heirloom varieties are "open pollinated" plants, which means that if you harvest seeds from a plant, prepare them, save them, and plant them next year, you will grow the same plant. Heirloom varieties were developed over time, in isolated gardens and communities, thus developing unique characteristics.
Heirlooms require particular growing conditions, and each variety is different. The key to success with heirlooms is choosing a variety that is well suited to your growing conditions. Because heirloom tomatoes have not been bred for generations to promote vigor and disease resistance, these varieties need a little bit of extra care. They are, however, worth the extra work. Heirlooms will produce lush, flavorful tomatoes of every shape, size and hue, for every culinary taste or need.
Hybrid Tomatoes
These tomatoes are the result of two different tomato varieties being "crossed" or joined, and the seeds harvested from the resulting plants. Hybrid tomato seeds will produce the tomato with hybrid characteristics for only one plant generation. If you harvest your tomatoes from the hybrid plant and plant those seeds next year, you will not have the same plant.
Hybrid tomatoes have been bred for disease resistance, uniformity, and ability to withstand mechanical harvesting, packing and shipping. Little time has been spent in enhancing flavor in hybrid tomatoes. Much like hybrid tea roses, hybrid tomatoes may be nice to look at, but they have few other desirable attributes.
For large-scale commercial tomato growers, hybrid tomatoes are a great help. For consumers expecting bright red tomatoes in the middle of winter, hybrids are a way to consume. For home gardeners, Heirloom varieties produce yields as large, and much more flavorful. Home gardeners have enough time an attention to successfully grow heirloom tomatoes and bring out their best qualities.
Choosing the Right Variety
Whether Heirlooms or Hybrids are your tomato of choice, you much choose tomato varieties that are well suited to your growing environment. Climates with high heat and humidity will help certain varieties flourish, while colder climates with shorter growing seasons require cultivation of plants that set fruit and mature faster.
For a comprehensive resource on tomato varieties, both heirloom and hybrid, consult How To Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes available from www.bestjuicytomatoes.com
If you want more detailed tomato garden advice and tips from a world horticultural expert, visit
http://www.bestjuicytomatoes.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Annette_Welsford
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Thursday, 18 September 2008
The Art of Growing and Showing Tomato - by Trevor Dalley
One hundred and fifty years ago the tomato (or, as it was then called, the Love Apple) was little known and less cared for. It was grown by a few only, and merely for the decorative value of the fruit. During the last one hundred it has grown rapidly in public favour.
With the aid of heated greenhouses it is possible and comparatively easy to have fresh Tomatoes all year round, though to provide a supply throughout the winter is an expensive matter.
Tomatoes may be grown in any sort of greenhouse, so long as there is means for ample ventilation and sufficient heat to extrude frost. But if the most is to be made of the plants, then a light sunny, polytunnel that can be heated is necessary.
Peat based growing medium is very good for the purpose, but Tomato plants are gross feeders so if an amount of loam can be acquired to mix with the base compost this will be very helpful. The mixing of the growing medium should be very precise, with equal parts of peat, pea gravel and loam, with a base dressing of Tomato fertilizer.
It is possible to acquire what are called Tomato grow bags, these are fine to start with but the feed in these bags does run out very quickly and supplement feeding is needed. Over the past twenty years we have done many tomato growing trials, and have concluded that the old ring culture is still the best way to grow and fruit tomatoes.
Outdoor Tomato culture:-
During the summer months Tomatoes are usually planted out in a prepared border, cultivation in pots being preferred for early crops. The border needs to be well drained and made suitable by deep digging and have plenty of home made compost incorporated into it, (home made compost making is dealt with in our article GARDEN COMPOST MAKING WORLD at http://www.gardencomposthelp.blogspot.com
also if it is possible to obtain some well rotted farmyard manure this can be incorporated into the top 9inchs (23cm) also bonemeal is very beneficial, always use rubber gloves when handling bonemeal. From eight to ten week should be allowed from the time of sowing the seed until the plants are wanted for planting out, this time can be cut to six weeks if the more expensive F1 Hybrid seed is used. If a large amount of plants are required it is better to use the cheaper open pollinated seed.
Sow the seeds into seed trays of good quality seed and potting compost, specially prepare for this purpose. The seeds should be sown thinly as possible to stop damping of when they emerge in about ten days, hybrid seed will germinate much faster and have less failures.
When the seedlings have reached about one inch in height they are lifted and transplanted at about 2 inches apart into seed trays or single pots, they should stay in the greenhouse and be shaded from direct sunlight for a few days, then expose them to the light and give free ventilation.
In about three weeks the plants will be ready to pot into 5inch (13cm) pots, in which they will remain until planted out in pots or borders.
When nicely rooted in 5-inch pots, and from 8 to 10 inches in height they are ready for the final planting. If to be fruited in flower pots, choose a pot which is 8 inches wide; always plant the Tomato deep in the pot this will allow for top dressing of new compost, plus the stem of the plants will root into the new compost giving the plant more anchorage as it grows taller.
Press the compost firmly round and over the roots, stake the plants and move to the place where they are due to fruit. If planting in borders, let them be in rows and 15 inches apart in each direction. At every fifth row let the distance be 18 inches in order to allow room for the grower to get amongst the plants. Press the soil firmly round the roots in planting.
When growing in pots in the greenhouse the best way to train the shoots is to run a wire at roof height from one end of the house to the other, place a cane in the pot with the plant and run a string from the base of the cane and tie it to the wire at roof height, as the shoots grow on the plant twist them around the string.
Unlike, the cucumber and melon, the Tomato cannot be grown successfully without a certain amount of fresh air, which must be regulated carefully, so that the temperature is not lowered unduly, on cold days only a small vent should be left open, but not to cause a draft, when the days are sunny and the temperature is raised greatly both end doors can be opened if growing in a tunnel, in greenhouse all vents should be opened.
When Tomatoes are grown in pots the labour of watering is great, it is advisable to purchase an automatic watering system, the best system is a drip feed type, not a spray system these can scorch the foliage on the plants very easily on hot sunny days.
With most of the drip feed systems a bottle is supplied that can be filled with liquid feed, the system will dilute the feed as the water passes through the container and deliver it to the plant roots. With regular feeding the fruits will swell very fast so constant picking of the crop is needed, we have found over the last 20 years with the introduction of the new hybrid seeds that it is advisable to collect the fruit when changing from green to orange, these fruits can be stored in a box placed on the potting bench and they will ripen nicely there, the removal of the fruit allows more feed to go to the smaller fruits at the top of the shoots.
If you wish to read more please go to http://dalley-nurseries-onlinehome.org its all free, we have a Guest Book if you would like to leave any comments.
About the Author
Trevor Dalley has been growing Fuchsias and Chrysanthemums for sale to the gardening public commercially for the last 40 years and is now ready to pass on money making knowledge to you the reader for free. http://gardendesignhelp.blogspot.com
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Monday, 1 September 2008
What to do About Tomato Black Spot or Tomato Blight - by J Hfield
Tomato blight is more common when the weather is cool and damp. It also occurs more if you keep planting your tomatoes/peppers/potatoes in the same place every year. They are truly a crop that needs to be rotated!
If your plant has fallen to the tomato black spot you need to act fast. Get rid of the plant, its roots and all leaves, burn it or put it in the garbage. Don't compost any of the waste or you can reinfect your plants next year.
It is also important to always water the plants down low, and don't sprinkle from overhead. Tomatoes just hate that.
Try to give your tomatoes enough space and good air circulation.
plant your tomatoes at the proper time for your area to ensure they are strongest during the best part of the growing season!
Good luck gardening! check out this website for more tomato tips www.LitteGardenPatch.com For more Tomato tips, garden pictures and raised bed gardening check out www.LittleGardenPatch.com
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Friday, 15 August 2008
Growing Heirloom Tomatoes
Once you have had a taste of a home grown heirloom tomato you will never eat a store bought one again! Growing Heirloom Tomatoes can be tricky to grow so here are some tips.
I have found that starting them from seed indoors and then planting them outside at the proper time ensures the greatest success and volume of tomatoes. I've grown identical plants, but one from seed and one from a store bought plant. There was no comparison, the one grown from seed was stronger, healthier, produced more fruit and had less growing problems. Even though the store/nursery ones may look good, you never know how much stress they have been through. Stick with seeds if you can!
Even bugs know which tomatoes taste better. I have found that most tomato pests love heirlooms. Sure the hybrid plants may not suffer from some of the problems heirlooms do, but they don't have the taste or vigor either. Most heirloom tomato pests can be easily taken care of with a few simple steps.
Keep your plants clean, no loose fruits on the ground.
Make sure you stake your plants and tie them up well.
Pinch off any extra suckers, don't go overboard though.
Pick off any bugs, like tomato horn worm. If you see a huge weird moth around your plants get rid of that too, because most likely it is laying horn worm eggs. YUCK!
Heirlooms need consistant watering. If they go through too many periods of drought or overwatering they may crack. A good deep soaking is all that is necessary. Mulch your plants to keep the soil temperature more even and extend the growing season.
Plant marigolds and basil around your Heirlooms, they will ward off pests. Marigolds look adorable planted around tomatoes, and basil is a delicious companion plant for tomatoes.
Check out this website for free info on growing tomatoes and other veggies and tons of pictures! www.littlegardenpatch.com
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Monday, 11 August 2008
How to Grow the Perfect Tomatoes
Of all of the different vegetables that are typically grown in the garden, the tomato is by far the favorite. As a matter of fact, people have bragging rights in accordance with the size of the tomatoes that they grow in some areas. That is why it is important to make sure that you are growing the perfect tomato in every season. Even though a lot of people think that is has to do with the variety of tomato that you grow, it actually has a lot more to do with how you grow them.
Of course, you need to start with strong, healthy plants and then you need to add them to the garden properly. Many people will leave a lot of the plant sticking out of the ground in order to get a head start on the growing season but if you do, you may be hurting the plant more than helping it. A tomato plant has an amazing ability to produce roots from any part of the plant that is put underground. Whenever I first plant my tomatoes, I only leave a little bit sticking out of the ground and the rest I allow to go to root. This gives it the opportunity to pull as many nutrients out of the soil as possible.
Something else that you should start doing as soon as the tomato plant starts to grow is to pull the suckers off of the plant. These are the odd stems that seem to appear between the main stalk and any branches that are growing. Even though these will produce tomatoes on their own, they tend to draw a lot of the energy out of the plant and hurt its overall production. If you pull these as soon as they appear, you will be able to keep the plant healthy and producing large tomatoes throughout the growing season.
Finally, you need to make sure that you are treating your tomato plants organically. The last thing that you would want to do is to grow the perfect looking tomato but have it be poison on the inside because you were adding chemicals to the garden. Yes, it does take a little bit more work in order to have an organic garden but the fresh, clean vegetables that it will produce are a much better addition to your table than those with pesticides on the inside.
If you want to make your thumb greener, visit http://www.gardeningabcs.blogspot.com for more gardening tips and information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Roberts
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Sunday, 30 March 2008
Time is running out to plant tomato seeds
There's still time to grow your own tomatoes from seed, as long as you start soon. It's fun to grow your own; plus you can grow rare varieties that you are unlikely to come across at your local nursery. Plant the seeds in containers that are at least 3 inches deep, with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Half-gallon milk cartons cut down to size work well. Buy seed-starter mix at your nursery and plant the seeds 1 inch apart in slightly moistened soil, 1/4 inch deep. Use a spray bottle to water the soil with a fine mist. Tomato seeds need warm roots to germinate, but prefer cool air between 60 and 70 degrees. Keep the container on a warm surface in a bright spot or 2 inches under a fluorescent light fixture. Keep misting the soil enough so it remains slightly moist. As soon as the second set of leaves appears, repot each seedling in a 4-inch pot. Fertilize with quarter-strength soluble house plant fertilizer every seven days, and gradually acclimate your baby tomato plants to the weather until you plant them out around Mother's Day.
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Saturday, 15 March 2008
Time To Choose Your Tomato Seeds
For everyone in the Northern Hemisphere who would like to grow tomatoes, now is the time to choose your tomato seeds. Here are a few of the great deals for tomato seeds available on eBay. Many different varieties are available, if you cannot see your preferred choice just click through to eBay and use the search box.
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Sunday, 2 March 2008
Home Grown Tomatoes
Growing them can be hugely satisfying and there is one vegetable you can never have too many of: home grown tomatoes. They are bursting with goodness, sunshine and anti-ageing properties.
Choose your varieties now, ready for sowing in a couple of weeks (for indoor tomatoes) to get a bumper crop.
How do you train and "stop" the plants, and why?
The simplest method to train the taller varieties is to suspend one vertical piece of string from the ceiling per plant and tie it loosely just below the lowest leaves.
Then, as it grows, twist the top of the plant around the string. I use an individual cane per plant outdoors but you could use a system of vertical posts and horizontal wires.
Remove the side shoots with your fingertips as soon as they appear so that all the energy goes into producing fruit from the truss. And when three to eight trusses have set fruit, "stop" the plant by pinching out the main shoot two leaves above the top flowering.
Exactly at which point you stop (or perhaps in sunny warm places do not stop at all) depends on whether the plants are indoors or outside. Trials have been carried out using both methods and it was discovered that the non-stopped plants produced many more fruit but very few of them ripened, whereas the stopped plants bore more ripe fruit. In a good summer, outside, you can ripen four to five trusses.
Joy Larkcom, a vegetable expert and author, lets some of her indoor plants grow unstopped and she is still picking a few now. Some years she picks her last ones as she sows her next crop. In sunny Japan, a gardener grew one tomato plant as a specimen (giving it near perfect conditions).
He merely supported it without stopping and it grew to over 12ft by 12ft and produced 16,054 tomatoes!
Are grow bags effective?
If you grow three plants in a grow bag, you can end up watering three times a day. If you do use them, two plants are a better bet. Just cut out a small patch in the top for the plant as opposed to making a wide slit.
Blossom end rot (where the base of the fruit goes brown or black) is a common problem caused by under- or over-watering, which adversely affects the plant's calcium supply. It is often exacerbated by the cramped conditions in a grow bag. If you cannot grow in the soil or are short of time, larger individual pots (a minimum size is 9in or 23cm) are better in my experience.
Which are the best varieties?
Garden Organic have a great range of heritage tomatoes, and they recommend Peace Vine, which is a small, wild type producing masses of 2-3cm tomatoes with a sweet, tangy flavour. Gardeners' Delight is prolific, easy and very tasty, but my favourites are the Japanese varieties, Momotaro, which translates as "Tough Boy" (a large tomato), and "Aiko" a cherry tomato.
In Japan, nearly all supermarket tomatoes are labelled by variety and I have never eaten a flavourless one. Blight resistant varieties will be big this year too: Ferline, Fantasio and Legend.
Is it worth growing grafted ones?
Sutton Seeds are selling grafted plants this year. They have selected vigorous disease-resistant rootstocks and have grafted tasty varieties on top, which, on their trial grounds last year, were resilient enough to grow through the blight.
They are offering three varieties: Conchita, a large cherry; Dasher, a tasty mini plum; and Elegance, a standard tomato with great flavour. The vigour of the rootstock means you produce fruit earlier (by two to three weeks) and for longer and they are more resistant to disease. I am growing all three this year, both indoors and outside in a sheltered spot.
Joy Larkcom believes it is worth using grafted plants in certain situations. She points out that, especially when you grow plants in the same soil, you can often suffer from unnoticed soil sickness. When she moved house (and greenhouse), she was stunned at the bumper crops which grew in the fresh soil.
The more vigorous rootstocks would be extremely useful if grown in a greenhouse, where it is more difficult to change the soil frequently.
What can be done about the dreaded blight?
Some gardeners declared that they would give up growing outdoor tomatoes after last year's blight. I love the outdoor varieties and strangely did not get blighted, perhaps because I grew them against a dry, sunny hedge (which is normally frowned upon).
Bob Sherman, from Garden Organic, recommends picking off affected leaves, which helps slow the disease. This, in conjunction with using grafted tomatoes in a sheltered place, should mean you can produce copious tasty tomatoes outside.
What about whitefly?
Yellow sticky strips are useful in the early stages, then bring in French Marigolds which, when they are in flower, deter the pests. Keep dead heading the marigolds to maintain flowering.
Any other useful tips?
High potassium feeds promote fruiting, but don't overdo it as too much will make for tough tomato skins. Avoid over-watering your plants too, as it dilutes the flavour. Keep them on the dry side in the early stages to help early fruiting. To ripen off your end-of-season outdoor plants, remove the support and carefully lay them on plastic on the ground and then cover them with a cloche.
Alternatively, lift up by the roots and hang them in the greenhouse or indoors.
Do not sow your seeds too late: for indoor tomatoes the end of February to mid-March is good, and for outdoor ones, sow indoors no later than the first week of April.
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Friday, 29 February 2008
What Tomatoes Will You Grow This Year? by David J Murray
Tomatoes can be as small as cherries or they can be several inches across. They may be bright red, or golden yellow, or dark purple almost to the point of being black, They may be spherical, cylindrical or plum-shaped. They can be sharp in flavour or lusciously sweet; firm-fleshed with liquid juice or soft and pasty, ideal for making purees.
Maybe you've done so in the past but if not, why not try growing some of the large "beefsteak" varieties this year? They're so good for slicing onto sandwiches. 'Brandywine' is a long-proven variety of this kind. Or how about the Italian 'Pomodoro Costoluto Genovese'?
Among the medium-sized varieties I've had good results with 'Ailsa Craig'. I'm not quite sure why but I've never grown 'Moneymaker', although it's been popular with generations of gardeners and is a firm recommendation from many growers.
Among the cherry tomatoes my favourite is toward the larger end of the group, 'Gardener's Delight'. My only hesitancy is that in our area we've had very bad blight for several years now and it does appear to be highly susceptible to that scourge of tomato growers. We'll return to the subject of tomato blight later, but I'm probably going to grow just a few this year, and under the protection of the greenhouse. A highly promising new cherry variety this year is 'Suncherry Premium F1 Hybrid'. For plum-shaped fruits why not try 'Olivade F1 Hybrid' or another Italian variety 'Pomodora Roma Nano'.
Earlier I mentioned the broad spectrum of colours available to tomato growers and thence to the cook and the salad bowl. Among the yellows 'Golden Sunrise' is a lasting favourite, and you could try 'Golden Sweet F1 Hybrid'. To give some dark contrast to the mix you can't get much better than 'Black Cherry'. Among the older, often labelled "Heritage" or "Heirloom", varieties are two Russians which produce beautifullly flavoured and large fruits: 'Purple Russian' and 'Black
Russian'. I first came across 'Black Russian' last year in a lonely-looking pot on a plant stall, bought it, and was won over. In future I must grow some from seed.
It is, of course, not necessary to have large amounts of space to grow tomatoes, even indoors or in the greenhouse. As well as the six to ten feet tall cordon plants there are also the small bushy varieties. 'Balconi Red' produces lusciously flavoured fruits, althogh I find it rather an ugly looking plant and prefer 'Gartenperle' for its combination of fruit and nicer appearance.
Some varieties are especially suited for particular uses or for growing under specific conditions. You can hunt around the seed catalogues for these, but here are a few. Two Italian varieties, 'Pomodoro Rio Grande' and 'Il San Marzano Lungo', are said to be especially good for making
tomato pastes. And if you live in a cold area where Winter turns to Summer only slowly then you may want to try 'Sub Arctic Plenty' which I understand was original bred for growing by army personnel stationed in Greenland.
I promised something about blight. It's not so many years since the gardening experts were telling us, "There's no such thing as a blight-resistant tomato", and of course they were correct. More recently bred varieties, though, have included some with greatly enhanced resistance to this disease. 'Ferline' and 'Legend' are two which I'm trying this year for the first time, having given up on growing my favourite 'Gardeners' Delight' out of doors in this area.
So then, that's a quick run down on the great range of tomatoes that you could be growing this year. Get out the seed trays, and on with the germination. I wish you success.
About the Author
David Murray has been an adviser on managerial and ethical issues to companies, governments and voluntary agencies for almost thirty years, but now as he enters semi-retirement is taking more time to enjoy his garden in the English Midlands, and to write material for several family-owned gardening and bookselling web sites.
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